PUT TOGETHER AND PLAY A F1 STOCK CAR SHOOT-OUT GAME

(You can make this F1 Shoot-Out game as basic or as complex as you want. The information that follows is a guide only and merely outlines one way of creating the game.)

Driver Cards

12 required, cut from card and measuring 8.9cm high and 5.7cm wide.

Using Microsoft Word 2007 and the included WordArt facility create tables with each cell the same dimensions as the above cards. Add a driver name and number to each cell. (I used the 12 shoot-out drivers competing for the silver roof in 2012.)

Example format pictured below:

Print and cut out the 12 drivers. Cut each in half and place them on the pieces of card, as pictured below, so that it doesn't matter which way up the cards are when you shuffle them. Either leave the front of each card blank or add your own narrative. (I used an inexpensive imprint stamp obtained from Rymans complete with the 3mm type set letters as pictured below:)

Laminate the 12 driver cards using laminating pouches 60mm x 95mm again obtainable from Rymans and pictured above. (If you don't have a laminating machine, I'm sure somebody you know will have one.)

You should end up with 12 laminated driver cards, similar to those pictured below, that will last for quite a while.

If you don't want to laminate, print the driver names direct on to card, as pictured below:

Then cut them out and you are ready to play. The fronts can be left blank or you can add your own narrative.

Alternatively, print out the driver cards on to plain paper, cut them out and stick to the back of twelve old playing cards.

Game Play

10 shoot-out rounds each consisting of 12 laps.

Set the playing record up on Microsoft Excel - see example below that is based on Excel 2007:

Add an addition formula to the cumulative points row for each driver and a similar formula to the bottom of each lap column. (The ones with a nought shown in the picture.) I transfer the cumulative points for each driver after each lap to the running cumulative score column (between the yellow shadings in the picture) rather than using a formula so that it is possible to use the 'sort in descending order' button.

The play for each lap is the same:

1) Shuffle driver cards and deal out one at a time.

2) Point scoring is 25 for 1st place and then 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 down to 1 for 12th place.

3) Add points to Excel chart under lap 1.

4) Transfer cumulative points for each driver to the running cumulative score on the left of the page and, using the descending order button, sort the drivers from highest point scorer to lowest point scorer.

Repeat the above for laps 2, 3 and 4 noting that laps 2 and 4 score double points. After lap 4 the bottom three drivers drop out. (In the event of tied points use a six-sided dice to decide which driver continues. Lowest scoring throw drops out.)

Laps 5 to 8 - the same game format but for 9 drivers so points are 25 for 1st place and then 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8 down to 6 for 9th place.

Note that laps 6 and 8 are for double points.

After lap 8, bottom three drivers drop out leaving 6 to compete over final 4 laps.

Laps 9 to 12 - same game format but points are 25 for 1st place and then 20, 15, 10, 5 down to 1 for 6th place.

Laps 10 and 11 score double points and lap 12 scores triple points.

Final 6 positions score 6+1 for 1st place and 5, 4, 3, 2 down to 1 for 6th place with those drivers tied on points sharing the spoils i.e. if the 3rd and 4th drivers have same points, they each score 4 points and the 5th place driver scores 2 points etc. These points are added to the F1 Shoot-Out Performance Table also on Excel 2007, see example below. This charts driver scores over the 10 shoot-out rounds (SO1 to SO10):

The shoot-out winner will be the most consistent points scoring driver over the full 10 rounds. Note that in round 10, the points are doubled i.e. 12+2 bonus points for 1st and then 10, 8, 6, 4, down to 2 for 6th place.

At the start of each shoot-out round all 12 drivers are back in contention and the points from the previous round should be zeroed. Each round can usually be completed in approx. 20 minutes.

The rules are not rigid and you can adapt them as you see fit. Why not allocate yourself a driver number and enter the fray!

Remember, it's not meant to be rocket science, just a bit of lighthearted fun involving our favourite sport.

Although a simple enough format, it is amazing how close the scores can get and how quickly a driver can climb or drop down the cumulative points chart. Pure luck or chance maybe but not a million miles away from reality! ENJOY!

IF YOU HAVE WINDOWS EXCEL 2007 AND WOULD LIKE ME TO EMAIL YOU THE 12 DRIVER NAMES AND THE PLAYING SHEETS READY TO OPEN UP ON YOUR PC OR LAPTOP, SEND A REQUEST AND YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS TO THE LINK BELOW:

http://www.mossmodels.co.uk/page29.htm

CREATE A SEARCHABLE DATABASE OF REGISTERED F1 DRIVERS FOR THE APPLE iPAD, iPOD & iPHONE

This database will enable you to identify a driver by inputting their number or obtain their racing number by entering their name.

To create the information base you will need the inexpensive My Lists app from the Apple store and by using iCloud you can load the app on to your other Apple devices.

The data entered into the app is the list of 2012 registered F1 drivers published in the April 2012 edition of Stock Car magazine plus new driver registrations since that date. As a member of the BSCDA this information is contained in the regular newsletters sent to drivers and associates.

Once this information is in the app on say your iPad it can be transferred to an iPhone or iPod by again using the iCloud function. I find my iPod is more convenient to take to stock car meetings and the search function within the My Lists app is easy to use.

If you don't fancy the thought of entering 188 driver names and numbers or you don't have access to details of new drivers registered since April 2012, send your email address to my website and I'll email a file of the data to you. You can then simply open and save the information using the My Lists app on your Apple device and start using it. The driver data is up to date as at 20th August 2012.

This is a simple but effective way for iPad, iPhone and iPad users to jog the memory when trying to remember a driver's name or number particularly if it is a new driver. Additional information can also be added to individual driver records.

Below are screen shots from both an iPad and an iPod:

Please remember, you do need the My Lists app on an Apple device to create this useful database and the app can also be used for other lists you might wish to create.

 

MAKE WHEELS FOR STOCK CAR MODELS

CARE: As sharp knives are involved, children need to be supervised by an adult.

Introduction

One of the questions I am often asked is, 'Where do you buy the wheels for your models?' There are times when I wish I could just go out and purchase them from a model shop but many years ago I made the decision to build my models from scratch as far as I could and this included making the wheels out of balsa wood.

The construction method I describe below can be adapted for most wheel sizes but do bear in mind that the measurements quoted relate to the models I make to a scale of approx. 1/19th and are for a tarmac F1 stock car running GoodYear tyres.

You will need a lot of time and patience but hopefully the end result will make the effort all the more worthwhile.

Materials/Tools Required (See picture below)

Sheet of balsa wood 1/4 inch thick

Sheet of balsa wood 1/8th inch thick

Sheet of balsa wood 1/16th inch thick

Dividers

Ruler

Sandpaper

Rotary smoothing sander

Balsa Cement

Sanding mask

Large and small modelling knives

Construction

Measurements in millimetres are indicated with the abbreviation mm and all others are in inches.

Outside Rear Wheel

Using divider and ruler make a circle of 11.9mm diameter on each of the 1/4, 1/8th, 1/16th sheets of balsa wood, near the edge for ease of cutting out.

With the large modelling knife, carefully cut round the circles leaving a small surplus for sanding purposes.

Glue the three circles together with the balsa cement and leave to dry and set. The tyre width will equate to 11.1mm.

The picture below shows, on the left, the outside rear wheel after cutting out and gluing together - note the surplus left on the edge of the circle. On the right is the wheel after sanding off the surplus.

 

Other Three Wheels

These are all the same size with a diameter of 11.1mm.

With that measurement on the dividers make three circles on the 1/4 and 1/8th sheets of balsa wood (six in all), again near the edge.

Using the large modelling knife carefully cut round the six circles leaving a small surplus for sanding purposes.

Glue together 1 x 1/4 circle and 1 x 1/8th circle three times ending up with three wheels each 3/8th in width. Leave to dry and set.

When Glue Set on all Four Wheels

Us the face mask for the next part to avoid inhaling excess balsa dust.

With the sandpaper, sand the surplus off each wheel ensuring an even amount is sanded down to the correct diameter indicated by the circle. Keep turning the wheel between your fingers and periodically round the edges off at the top of the tyre wall. Look again at the above picture.

This is a labour intensive process, hard on your fingers and not to be rushed. Take your time.

Once you have all four wheels looking smooth and rounded similar to the one in the picture, use the dividers with a diameter of 6mm to make a circle on what will be the outer face of the wheel on all four - as seen in the above picture. This represents the hub on which the tyre is mounted.

Creating the Inside of the Hub

This is the trickiest part of the process.

Using the smaller modelling knife and ensuring it is very sharp, very carefully cut round the hub circle to a depth of approx 3mm. Make sure you don't overlap the circle and mark the tyre sidewall. TIP - rather than drag the knife round the circle, I use a light stabbing action.

Now score lines across the inner circle with the knife and, in small triangular sections, gently ease out the centre. Use the point of the knife to scrape out more of the balsa wood and create depth. See picture below:

When depth is relatively even, use the small 6mm rotary sander (turning it with your fingers) to smooth out the rough balsa wood surface.

Fold a small piece of sandpaper and smooth the outer edge of the hub. See picture below:

Complete this process for all four wheels.

Finishing Off

The wheels are now ready to attach to the axles and you should end up with them looking similar to those in the pictures below:

The wheels are ready to be coated with sanding sealer before several coats of Humbrol black enamel paint to the tyre and whatever colour the hub is on the car you are replicating.

The tyres in the pictures were for my 2 Paul Harrison 2011 World Championship winning car and are pictured on the car below:

Remember, this is just my method of creating wheels for stock car models. There are many other ways including using Scalextric wheels if they fit with the scale of the model.

Good luck with your efforts and let me know how you get on.

 

 

ADD SHALE WINGS TO ED CREATIONS MODELS

CARE: As sharp knives are involved, children need to be supervised by an adult.

Materials/Tools Used (See picture below)

0.9mm thick plastic card sheet

2mm square plastic strip

Tube of Uhu glue

Clamp

Modelling knife

Pair of cutters/Pair of pliers

Ed Creations model car with tarmac aerofoil removed

Aerofoil Construction

Firstly, snip the tarmac aerofoil off the roof with cutters.

Mark shale aerofoil out on the 0.9mm plastic card in pencil, using dimensions shown in the diagram below:

Fold aerofoil along pencil lines shown in diagram to create the fins, taking care not to over bend and snap the plastic. TIP: - fold against the edge of a ruler ensuring you are folding in the correct direction.

Make the small fold on top of the large fin. This requires extra care. TIP: - carefully use flat nosed pliers with protection on plastic to start the fold.

Fold and shape the aerofoil as seen in the picture below:

Fitting To Car

At this stage you need to decide whether you want to add stickers to the car and wing, or not. If you do, it will be necessary to obtain a sheet of stickers before you fit the wing. Inexpensive stickers, as shown on the 197 model pictured, can be purchased from Matthew at StoxSigns. He can be contacted at stoxsigns@gmail.com and also visit his website at www.stoxsigns.co.uk.

When you have added the stickers or if you have decided not to use them, continue with fitting the aerofoil as follows:

Cut two roof supports from the 2mm plastic strip using following dimensions:

Rear support - 15mm long

Front support - 13mm long

Glue the front and rear roof supports into the rivet holes on top of the roof. NOTE: you will need to lightly sharpen, like a pencil, with the modelling knife the bottom 2.5mm of each support so they fit into the rivet holes. DON'T overdo this - it doesn't need to be a point. Just shave enough off until they fit.

Allow the roof supports to dry. See picture below showing the roof supports:

When front and rear supports are dry and firm, glue shale aerofoil to side of cab and on to the roof supports. See pictures for example of correct angle. It is possible to fit the wing without a clamp - just hold in position until glue starts to set.

TAKE CARE to avoid excess glue.

Additional Work

If you have not added stickers to the wing, paint it red with Humbrol enamel paint.

NB. The downbars on the 197 model are cut from 1/16th inch wire.

And Finally

Hope you have fun creating and fixing your shale aerofoil. Don't be frightened to experiment. For example, instead of plastic card, the wing can be cut from an empty aluminium drink can.

There should be no problem with children playing with the cars as the plastic shale aerofoils are quite robust! However, it will depend on how competitive their race is!!

Email my site with some pictures of your efforts - I would be interested to see them.

Below are some of the Ed Creations cars that have been fitted with shale wings complete with StoxSigns stickers: